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What our customers
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We had your company close
our swimming pool last year for the first time. Prior to this we
had a competitor of yours do this task. Your employees sent to
accomplish this task were first class. They were knowledgeable,
friendly, informative and even helped us solve a minor problem
with the liner. We were very pleased with the service they gave
us.
Opening our pool this
spring, when faced with a delay, your workers made a decision on
their own to work on a regularly scheduled day off, a Saturday,
to get our pool open. Again they did a remarkable job.
We are very pleased with
the service your company has provided and will continue to use
your company for our pool needs. Service in this day and age
sometimes is not what we would like it to be but that is not the
case with your company.
Douglas
J. Jackson
Peterborough, ON
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At Water World we have a certified, experienced team for all of your pool
service requirements. Please call us if you don't happen to see your
particular issue listed; this is only a partial list of our service offerings.
- Inground pool liner installation and/or replacement
- FREE pool opening and closing seminars
- Pool opening and closing service
- FREE water testing and balancing
- FREE education and advice
- Pump and filter service and part replacement - All models
- In stock parts and products
- Concrete repairs
- Deck and interlocking brick repairs
- Insurance quotes welcome
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. There is no pressure at the pool, but my pump is running?
A. Check the pressure gauge on your filter. The filter pressure
normally runs between 10-15 PSI. When it reads 20-25 PSI it means the filter
is dirty. Clean or backwash the filter and repeat if necessary. This allows
full flow back to your pool. If the pressure problem persists contact our
service department at Ext. 14.
Q. How long should I run my pump? Can I run it all the time?
A. This will vary depending on daily usage, pool size, equipment
size, and weather. The entire volume of the pool should be run through the
filter once a day. This can take quite a bit of time; for example 27300
gallons will take 7 hours to completely circulate. Running the pump 24 hours
per day will not harm your pump.
Q. My pump will not prime. What should I do?
A. The pump may be located too high above the pool water level.
Ideally the pump should be at or just above the water level. Other issues
could be: no water in the pump strainer pot; a damaged lid o-ring; water
level is below the skimmer; a clogged impeller; or an air leak in the
suction line. Check for these various problems and call us if you cannot
rectify the situation.
Q. My pool seems to be losing water.
A. Water loss can be due to something as simple as evaporation or
may indicate a serious leak. Try these steps before contacting us for a
service call:
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Mark the liner at the current water level.
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Run the pump for 24 hours and then check the mark on the liner. If the
water has gone down, the leak could be in the line, skimmer, main drain,
or pump/filter.
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Check for visible water around the pump, filter, chlorinator, and
heater.
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Re-mark the water level. Shut pump off and close the main drain (if
applicable) and skimmer for 24 hours. If the pool continues to lose
water, there is possibly a leak in the liner or at the step.
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Notify our service department of your findings when you call.
Q. My pool water looks clean, why should I test it?
A. For pool water to be sparkling clear and trouble-free, it must
be kept in the right condition. Unfortunately, water that is clear and
clean-looking may not be sanitary, while water that is totally acceptable
for drinking purposes may have mineral imbalances that will lead to pool
problems. A pool water test kit will show you the present quality of your
water and indicate the changes that may be required to maintain the right
condition and balance in your pool. Click here
for more information on regular pool care.
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What our customers
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It is when difficulties
arise that one can determine the quality and integrity of a
company. Our pool had its unique installation challenges and
your company has lived up to its commitment and reputation. We
are impressed with the personal cordial nature of your staff and
the frequent communications.
We know that we have made the right
choice for a pool company and will continue to provide
references as we have already done.
Rob
and Julie Uraisami
Whitby, ON
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Q. Why should I sanitize clean water?
A. Chlorine is added to the pool for three purposes: to
destroy micro-organisms already in the water; to destroy new contaminants,
bacteria, algae spores, etc. as they come into the pool; and to periodically
oxidize undesirable organic materials, colours, odours or sanitizer
breakdown by products that accumulate with time.
Q. What is the proper way to take a water sample?
A. The sample should be taken from as far as possible below the
surface and away from the pool water return inlet. Samples should be tested
promptly.
Q. What is pH?
A. pH is simply a convenient way of expressing how acid (vinegar)
or alkaline (soapy) the pool water is. The pH scale runs from 0 (acidity) to
14 (alkalinity) with 7.0 being neutral.
Q. What are the effects of pH on pool water?
A. Human beings feel most comfortable in a relatively narrow pH
zone of between 7.2 and 7.8 (slightly alkaline). Fortunately, chlorine and
other sanitizers are at their most effective level within this same range.
Some effects of low pH are rapid chlorine loss; strong odours; eye and skin
irritation; corrosion of equipment; vinyl liner wrinkles; and stains on pool
surfaces. Effects of high pH include cloudy or coloured water; reduced
chlorine effectiveness; scale deposits; stains on pool; and algae growth.
Q. What is Total Alkalinity?
A. Total Alkalinity (TA) is a measure of the buffering capacity of
pool water, such as its degree of resistance to change in pH. Too low a TA
causes pH to fluctuate wildly and may cause the water to become quite
corrosive, damaging metal pool fittings and etching pool plaster and tile
grouting. Too high a TA results in a pH that resists change, can cause
cloudy water, and scale to form. The ideal TA range for your pool is
dependant on a number of factors including your source water hardness and
the pool surface material. For best results have your water professionally
tested.
Q. What is algae?
A. Algae are tiny one-celled forms of plant life that can grow and
multiply rapidly in pool water, especially in warmer weather. The
microscopic, air-borne algae spore is continuously present and it thrives on
sunshine, heavy pool use and insufficient chlorine. Once visible algae are
present, water turns green/brown, ugly spots form on the walls and bottom,
odours develop, and surfaces become extremely slippery and unsafe. It is
much easier and less costly to prevent algae growth than it is to remove it.
Q. How does calcium hardness effect my pool?
A. Pool water with a low calcium hardness level is corrosive and
will cause severe etching of pool plaster and tile grouting as well as
corroding metal pool fittings. High calcium hardness results in cloudy
water, scale formations and stained pool surfaces. Calcium hardness should
be in the range of 200-275 ppm.
Q. Is liquid chlorine safer than granular? Which is more
effective?
A. In the past, liquid chlorine was the pool sanitizer of choice.
Recently, we have discovered that liquid chlorine is extremely harmful to
your liner. It fades the colour as well as eventually leading to a costly
liner replacement. This is preventable by using our granular
chlorine-sanitizer to clean your pool. With properly stabilized PH levels,
granular sanitizers will last longer and save money. This system works well
with stabilized pucks or Aqua Feet.
Q. What are Bromine tablets?
A. Bromine tablets are a safe, effective, slow dissolving tablet
for sanitizing pool water. Bromine does not have the unpleasant side effects
associated with chlorine-based chemicals and performs well over a broad pH
range. Bromine is less irritating to the eyes and skin; does not have the
unpleasant smell caused by chlorine; is less likely to fade clothing and
hair; is less corrosive than chlorine; is less work for the pool owner; and
its active ingredient is less volatile than chlorine, especially at higher
temperatures. The two main disadvantages to bromine are that some people are
allergic to it and break out in a rash, and it is considerably more
expensive than chlorine.
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